After lunch in the members' dining room, we spent time walking all around Hew Locke's The Procession, the current commission in the Duveen Galleries. The installation is comprised of over 100 figures in a parade of sorts, like Carnival. After you are drawn in by the colourful costumes and the pageantry, you start to look closer and realize that much of the fabric is printed with images of stock shares in sugar companies and plantations. There are all sorts of other images in the clothing and banners that point to the violence of colonialism in the Caribbean. What was initially a joyful-looking scene becomes one depicting exploitation, militarism, death, and ultimately survival.
We then ambled up Whitehall to Westminster, where Judy caught the tube while I headed on to Trafalgar Square to see the newly installed sculpture on the 4th plinth. This one is called Antelope and is by Samson Kambalu. It depicts two real men for a change (past plinth sculptures have been a ship in a bottle, an ice cream sundae, and a blue rooster), and a poignant moment in the history of the British Empire in Africa. Read more about it here and see photos that are much better than my snap below.
Tuesday was another gorgeous autumn day, and I set out on what turned out to be a very long walk, from my gaff in Belsize Park, up and over Primrose Hill, down the Broad Walk in Regent's Park, through the streets of Marylebone, to Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens (with a stop to eat my packed lunch at the Italian Gardens, a place I love) and to see the exhibitions at the Serpentine Galleries and the temporary Pavilion. This year's pavilion is Black Chapel by Theaster Gates. Some years, the pavilion is light and airy. This one is dark and enclosed, with an oculus in the roof to let the sky be seen and light come in. It's supposed to be a place of "reflection, refuge and conviviality" and I reckon it fits the bill.
Later, I wandered around Bayswater a bit, saw girls on horses at the riding stables tucked away in Bathurst Mews, and made my way up to Paddington to see a man stuck in a clock.
The bus ride home took me through Maida Vale and into St John's Wood, so I hopped off in order to dash into Panzer's Deli to buy a loaf of their wonderful rye, raisin and walnut bread. I so wish I could find a bakery at home that makes this bread. The deli has changed enormously since I was last there about 10 years ago. It's rearranged and remodeled and is now a temple of imported food. My eyes were definitely bigger than my stomach or my wallet.
My next stop was the Photographers' Gallery just off Oxford Street to see a large retrospective exhibition of black and white photos by Chris Killip, all taken in the north of England during the 1970s and 80s, showing the impact that the economic decline during those decades had on the people who lived in the towns and countryside. I thought the photos were incredibly powerful, opening my eyes to a slice of British life I'd never seen, and I thoroughly enjoyed the show.
Onward to the north again, my next destinations were All Saints Margaret Street and the Fitzrovia Chapel. (Sorry, no pix, as the lighting was just too dark for my rubbish phone camera. I'll have some better shots from my proper camera to post eventually on ipernity.) All Saints Margaret Street is a Grade I listed Victorian Gothic revival church, with elaborate tile friezes covering most of the interior surfaces. The Fitzrovia Chapel, also Victorian, is a tiny structure, surrounded by modern buildings that dwarf it. The chapel was originally within the complex of the Middlesex Hospital, which was torn down about 10 years ago with only the chapel surviving. This one is Grade II listed. The gold-tiled interior is absolutely dazzling and feels like stepping into a jewel box or the inside of a Faberge egg.
I'd really been pushing myself to the max, so I was happy to make an easier day of it on Thursday. In the morning, I joined the Primrose Hill Community Association walking group for their weekly ramble, this one a social walk down to Regent's Park, past the herbaceous borders and several fountains, then back to Primrose Hill. I enjoyed chatting with the other walkers as we ambled through the park. I had a leisurely lunch back at my gaff, and then walked the ten minute distance to the Hampstead Theatre to see the matinee performance of The Snail House. I hadn't read any reviews beforehand so that I could form my own opinion, which was that the staging was very good, acting generally good, but the play itself wasn't all that well written and had too many themes running through it. Apparently, the Guardian's reviewer agrees.
It's amazing that I had the stamina for one more stop, but I took some ibuprofen and pushed on to the Foundling Museum to see the exhibition Tiny Traces: African & Asian Children at London's Foundling Hospital. I've always liked this small museum and the stories it tells of the children taken into care there. (It's another freebie for Art Pass holders.) When I was very young, one of my favourite books was Dickens' Stories about Children, nearly all of whom are orphans. I know that we have romanticized the stories of orphans in literature for eons, but I do find them compelling. The exhibitions at the Foundling Museum cut through that romanticism and tell the real stories of very real children. In this current exhibition, the museum examines the fragmentary evidence they have found of children of colour who came into care at the Foundling Hospital.




































