It's Bloomin' Lovely Here!

It's springtime at last and I'm back in London. I left Massachusetts in late April, just days after the final remaining pile of dirty snow near my house melted away. When I arrived in London, I found the last few tulips dropping their petals, the wisteria, azaleas and rhododendrons in full bloom, and roses starting to pop. The trees and plants look and smell lovely and I'm not even complaining too much about my allergies. I blame the chestnut and plane trees, both plentiful here but somewhat rare in western Massachusetts. I learned that it's the pollen from the London Plane trees that sticks in the back of your throat and makes you cough. 

Tuesday to Friday

My first four days were spent running around from gallery to gallery, exhibition to exhibition, trying to see as many current shows as possible before they ended in early May. It really helps that I can sort my spreadsheet by date ending and then make a plan to tick them off. 

First up was Textile Art Redefined at the Saatchi Gallery in Sloane Square. The small exhibition (one room, 15 artists) featured a range of textile arts and techniques (knitting, weaving, crochet, quilting, embroidery) used to produce some amazing works. Some of my favourite pieces were made of denim, yarn and tulle.

Another of my must-see exhibitions was of two artists, Chiharu Shiota: Threads of Life and Yin Xiuzhen: Heart to Heart at the Hayward Gallery in the Southbank Centre. Both used textiles -- often reclaimed and repurposed -- to evoke themes of leaving, belonging, searching and home. I had seen Chiharu Shiota's pavilion at the Biennale in Venice in 2015 and was intrigued to see how she had used the same red threads and hanging keys in a new space with a different theme. Yin Xiuzhen's luggage carousel with suitcases depicting different cities was fantastic! For the London suitcase, she had invited staff of the Hayward Gallery to contribute pieces of their own clothing, from which she crafted a cityscape of London. 

From the Hayward, a meandering walk took me past the Garden Museum, where I happened to see a sign that there was an exhibition of Jane Hammond's botanical collages and I popped in for that. Somehow this one hadn't made it to my spreadsheet and I was pleased with this serendipitous find. Jane is a graduate of Mount Holyoke College and has exhibited many times in the MHC Art Museum, so I knew her work. The collages were a real treat for the eyes, and so fun to pick out wee animals and insects within the bouquets. 

Other galleries/exhibitions I visited (some good, some meh, some that enticed me to linger and others that had me quickly on my way):

• Photographs by Fosco Maraini at the Italian Cultural Institution
• Auction preview of 50 Years of Punk at Bonhams Knightsbridge
• Wartime Art in London at the Imperial War Museum
• Cecily Brown at the Serpentine Gallery South
• London Intersections at the UCL Bartlett Faculty of the Built Environment
• October Gallery for a group show, some of which I'd seen before
• Road Work (photographs of American cars and trucks in the 1980s) at the Architectural Association
• Auction preview of Modern Made (mid-century modern) at the Mall Galleries
• Julian Opie at Christea Roberts -- I really enjoyed this 
• White Cube Mason's Yard exhibition by Sarah Morris
• Carrie Mae Weems at Goodman Gallery -- another good one
• Sadie Coles exhibition of paintings by Wilhelm Sasnal -- liked some of this
• Photojournalism of the past 12 months, the deadliest year for photojournalists, at ST.ART, including the famous photo of Andrew, formerly known as prince, in the back of the car after his arrest

I also saw the new Banksy statue that appeared overnight this week in Waterloo Square. I actually went twice. The first day it was surrounded by rather tall plastic barriers and tons of people. Several days later, the barriers had been reduced to shorter, less formidable ones and the crowds were a bit smaller. Everyone seems to love it and hope that Westminster Council lets it stay. Apparently Banksy and his helpers installed it in the middle of the night, lowering it into place with a crane, so surely the council must have known what he was up to.

And I went to the Handel Hendrix House for the first time, only just having learned that it's free with my Art Pass. It's actually two houses side-by-side, one owned by George Frideric Handel and, next door, one floor of the flat rented by Jimi Hendrix. Both have been recreated, with very few things actually owned by either musician. I thought the Hendrix side was much more interesting, partially because I remember the late 1960s and recognized many of the types of things in the flat (a shawl hung from the ceiling, just like the one my high school friend Judy wore daily c. 1970) and due to a very engaging bloke who was invigilating and told me many stories about Jimi's time there, how they discovered flat and meticulously put it back together. 

Plus I attended two talks -- one on Catherine Dickens by Lillian Nayden (Bates College faculty) at the Charles Dickens Museum and The Hidden History of London's Women Detectives at the Horse Hospital. 

Weekend #1

After all that rushing around during the week, I slowed down at the weekend. On Saturday, after going as usual to the Parliament Hill Farmers' Market for my baked goods purchases, I met my mate Jane at a vintage flea market held at the Wapping Hydraulic Power Station. Had a great time mooching around and trying things on, but didn't buy anything. 

On Sunday, I did laundry, then went to Smithfield to see the Great Hall and Hogarth Stair at Bart's Hospital, which I'd seen years ago prior to a stunning restoration, followed by a bus ride to Hackney for a guided walk about the 1926 General Strike in Hackney (part of the annual Hackney History Festival -- more about that later). 

Second Week

More of the same, it seems. Galleries, exhibitions, talks, walks, building tours and more than a few charity shops. The pace was less frenetic, however, as I had fewer about-to-end exhibitions to see: 

• Wright of Derby at the National Gallery. Also saw the Portrait of a Horse by Stubbs while I was there. 

• The new Gilbert Collection Galleries at the V&A (lost of small, jeweled boxes and many mosaics made of the teeniest bits imaginable)
• Japan House: 100 Makers from Japan (lovely crafts, fantastic loo)
• Barbican Galleries: Beatriz Gonzalez and Encounters: Giacometti and Lynda Benglis. I've seen two (of four total) of the other encounters with Giacometti and liked this one the least. Oh, well. But I loved the Beatriz Gonzalez exhibition, though it contained many images drawn on Columbia's violent history that were difficult to view. She incorporates a lot of images from popular culture, newspapers, adverts, etc.

• Donald Locke at Camden Arts Centre. He's the father of Hew Locke, whose work I really like. Didn't care at all for dad's stuff, however. 
• Burgh House to see paintings by Donald Chisholm Towner, who lived and painted in Hampstead for five decades.
• The Coming of Age at the Wellcome Collection -- I breezed through but might go back later in the month
• Mr. Bingo -- met the man, bought a print

Building tours:

• St Mark's Dalston -- another site that's part of the Hackney History Festival. The vicar told us about the building and we got to look around.

• Almshouse at the Museum of the Home -- saw one room depicting c. 1780 and another c. 1880. The tour guide was great and I learned a lot of things that I'd missed (or forgotten) from when I did the tour about 15 years ago. 

Talks:

• Premises Studio (another Hackney History Festival site). Didn't see much of the building as the recording studios were in use, but heard an interesting talk about the history and stories from the bloke who owns it. 
• Tyburnia (talk by Pete Smith at the Guildhall Library)
• Kiran Mehta on Crime and Justice in 18th and 19th Century Southwark at The London Archives.

Day trip

On Thursday, I went to Chichester, about an hour and a half (if the train is on time) south of London to see an exhibition at the wonderful Pallant House Gallery (my third visit there). 

Just as last October, my train was delayed on the way down. This time, we had to get off in Barnham and wait for another train that would be stopping at Chichester (the next stop). I arrived about an hour late, qualifying me for a nice delay repay of

£4.20 from Southern Rail. 

The exhibition I came to see was an extensive retrospective featured the prints, illustrations and paintings of William Nicholson (1872 – 1949). His paintings include portraits, scenes of family life (the artist Ben Nicholson was his son), landscapes and lovely still life works (he had a knack for shiny objects with reflections). As an illustrator, he did block prints and line drawings for various publications and children's books, including The Velveteen Rabbit. As always at the Pallant, the exhibition was beautifully curated and displayed and I thoroughly enjoyed it. 

The day was a bit chilly, but the sun was shining, so after the gallery I walked another part of the old city wall, revisited the stunning Cathedral (spent a bit more time there than my last visit) and enjoyed a stroll through the Bishop's Palace Gardens. And once again, I ran out of time to visit the Novium Museum with displays of Roman Chichester. 

Weekend #2

Saturday always starts with a walk up to Parliament Hill for the Farmers' Market. I took a different bus back to my gaff, down Kentish Town Road, in order to stop at a church book sale. They weren't doing much business (I was the only person there at the time) and I felt badly for their prospects of raising money for their building fund, so I bought four books. The asking price was a four for a quid, but I gave them two quid. By the time I got home, my laundry had finished washing. I hung it to dry and ate my black olive bread stick from the market. 

The day was getting brighter and warmer by the minute, and I decided to walk up to Hampstead (second day in a row) and onward uphill to the Hill Garden and Pergola. Clearly I wasn't the only person who had this idea, and it was a bit crowded, but what a splendid day to be there to gawp at the wisteria, azaleas and rhododendrons! It's long been a favourite spot of mine, particularly on a gorgeous day in early May. 

The Mildmay line then took me to Kensington Olympia, where I went to the Ceramic Art London show at Olympia West. The number of presenters and the array of ceramic works was overwhelming, ranging from pieces of exceptional craftpersonship (is that a word?) and creativity to the downright goofy. I didn't buy anything. 

Some time overnight an extremely cold air mass blew in from somewhere, bringing freezing temps and gusty winds. Still, I went out on Sunday -- the 85th anniversary of the end of the bombing of London -- for a guided walk in the City on Artists of the Blitz. Jonathan Wober, our excellent guide, took us to the exact spot where various artists had drawn or painted scenes of the bombing or its aftermath. 

Needing to get out of the cold and the wind, I walked a few blocks from the walk's ending point to the Guildhall Art Gallery. There I saw the exhibition Underground (and Surface) of paintings of scenes of London, particularly the Underground, by artist Jock McFadyen, accompanied by a soundscape of Underground noises by Jem Finer of the Pogues. The paintings hovered somewhere between abstraction and realism -- very evocative, especially with the oh-so familiar screeches of the Northern Line. 

I hopped a bus (too cold to walk the short distance) to Aldgate East and spent a few minutes looking at the exhibition at Stolen Space (meh; I might go back for the next show) before walking up Brick Lane. A friend in Texas of all places tipped me off to a new piece of street art that she'd seen on Instagram. It's the Wee Tiny Art Gallery, perfectly fitted into a space left by a missing brick close to the pavement in Princelet Street. Unlike at the new Banksy piece, I was the only person taking snaps of this one. 

I'm getting much better about talking with people here and there! I've discussed the diversions and closed/moved stops with ladies on the bus and had a long chat with a bloke on the delayed train to Chichester. Many people have told me that they like my purple hair -- far more compliments than I get a home in Northampton, Massachusetts, where perhaps it's not so unusual. The days are getting longer and, I hope, will be getting warmer. That means more daylight hours for me to be out exploring. There's just so much to do that I come home knackered and don't have time for writing, but I'll try to be better about blogging going forward. Stay tuned, mates. 

Stats and expenses:

Monday, 27 April:
£25 top up Oyster card
£10 one-month phone plan
€3.90 tea at Dublin airport
£19.15 groceries
£6.70 pint of London Pride

£5.50 Curious Histories
17,002 steps
6.6 miles

Tuesday, 28 April:

£5 meal deal lunch

£10.65 tofu and bottle of wine

£3.99 things for flat

20,970 steps

8.16 miles

Wednesday, 29 April:

£9.50 Hayward Gallery

£3.50 brownie

£6.50 bread

£3.25 groceries

19,086 steps

7.55 miles

Thursday, 30 April:

£11.89 groceries

£2.95 Forgotten Ends sushi cup

£13.80 Salon at the Horse Hospital

22,444 steps

8.85 miles

Friday, 1 May:

£2 beverage

£50 top up Oyster card

17,794 steps

6.87 miles

Saturday, 2 May:

£15.20 farmers' market

£2.88 flea market entry

17,085 steps

6.7 miles

Sunday, 3 May:

£2 pastel de nata

£3 General Strike walk

£2.10 beverage

16,047 steps

6.28 miles

Monday, 4 May:

£5 Wright of Derby at National Gallery

£2.54 sandwich

£2.95 banana bread

£3.50 pint of Harvey's Sussex Best

£20 dinner at The Paradise

£2.67 groceries

18,520 steps

7.25 miles

Tuesday, 5 May:

£15 Barbican Art Gallery (two exhibitions)

£2.95 Forgotten Ends

£20.79 groceries and wine

18,682 steps

7.39 miles

Wednesday, 6 May:

£7.05 groceries

£5 talk at London Archives

19,271 steps

7.36 miles

Thursday, 7 May:

£13.60 train ticket -£4.20 delay repay

£3 pain au raisins at train station

£7.50 Pallant House Gallery

£3.25 apple cake

16,740 steps

6.48 miles

Friday, 8 May:

£1.45 pastel de nata

£4 beer

££ print from Mr. Bingo

£7.50 linen shirt from charity shop

18,575 steps

7.27 miles

Saturday, 9 May:

£14.70 farmers' market

£2 used books

£16.52 Ceramic Art London

£9.47 groceries

25,440 steps

10.01 miles

Sunday, 10 May:

£17 Art of the Blitz walk

£3.30 banana bread

17,549 steps

6.93 miles

Open House, Part 2

Well, mates, it's happened. I've run out of steam. I've just gotten in from my last day of adventures, and I am truly knackered. Thankfully, the blisters didn't start to appear until yesterday, and I had a pretty easy (right!) day planned for today. We had 11 index cards for the day, 10 of which were in the City and one in Tower Hamlets (just east of Tower Hill, where Whitechapel meets Wapping). We made it to 9 of the 11, plus one that wasn't on the original list:

• The Daily Express Building (or what was the Daily Express; not sure what's in the building now -- might be Goldman Sachs -- but it's still an Art Deco gem and we were able to see the lobby)
• Apothecaries' Hall (one of the best preserved 17c livery hall interiors; I took some pix of jars that held leeches and various herbs and potions)
• St Andrew-by-the-Wardrobe (Wren's last church in the City)
  
• Painters' Hall (bombed in the war and rebuilt afterwards)
• St Helen Bishopsgate (parts date from 1210 and it survived the Great Fire)
• Bevis Marks Synagogue (built in 1701; it's the oldest synagogue in Britain)
• Old Turkish Baths (late Victorian; now a pizza parlor where we had a nice lunch)
• Guildhall (Grade I listed medieval civic building, dating from the 12th century)
• St Bartholomew's Hospital (founded in 1123; Grade I listed Georgian building where we saw the Great Hall and a staircase decorated with huge canvases by Wm. Hogarth)
• Wilton's Music Hall (dates from 1859; the oldest music hall in Britain and possibly in Europe; if you saw the movie Casandra's Dream, you caught some glimpses of the interior)

Spooner's favorite from today was the synagogue, while mine was Wilton's. I got some pix, but in many places you either aren't allowed to photograph or the lighting is so dim that it wasn't possible.

When we got back to Belsize Park, we went to Budgen's supermarket to get things for dinner and for our respective journeys (Spooner's with some kids from his school to Scotland tomorrow and mine home to the States). Oh joy, oh joy! HobNobs were on sale -- buy one package for 99p and get the second free. Brilliant!

Pedometer reading: 18,700 steps, 7.6 miles

Expenses:

• £5 for my half of our pizza at Ciro's
• £1 for a piece of cake at Wilton's (a bunch of oldies off a bus tour were having tea and cakes in the cafe and I grabbed a piece of ginger cake)
• 99p for two packages of HobNobs
• £9.49 for a bottle of wine for Spooner's household
  

I think I'm ok for money on my Oyster to get to Heathrow tomorrow. Spooner and his flatmates will be leaving before dawn for their school trips, and I'll leave the house around 10 for the long journey home. It's been a really wonderful trip -- I saw a few new areas as I fill in the map of London, I got to spend some time with Flickr mates -- new and old -- whose company I totally enjoy, I saw sites that a regular tourist rarely gets to see, and (I hope) I got a few good pix in the process. I'm especially happy that I got to spend a fair amount of time in the East End (Hoxton, Shoreditch, Spitalfields and Whitechapel) because I missed that patch on my last trip. Watch for the pix to appear on Flickr -- after I rest, play with the cats, and do a mountain of laundry.

Thanks for reading about my adventures. The next post will be from Stateside, when I will tell you all about conkers, snails, stinging nettles and dock. I'll also go back to my older posts and drop in photos and links.

Greetings from (c)old soggy

Everyone here talks/complains about the weather constantly, so I may as well, too. It pretty much sucks. Arrival day was sunny, but windy and a bit chilly. Friday was very windy, grey, somewhat damp and COLD. I spent the day walking around Islington, with runny nose and watery eyes most of the time. But it was an enjoyable walk that included Camden Passage Market (not much going on there on Fridays), lunch at the S&M (Sausage and Mash) Cafe, another Banksy, and a nice little gallery of Italian art called the Estorick Collection.


After finishing with Islington, I took the overground to Finchley and Frognal and walked down the Finchley Road to catch the bus to St John's Wood to meet Spooner at his school. As luck would have it, I saw a charity shop and got a warm scarf for 2 pounds. At Spooner's school, we went to a concert that the kids were doing as a fundraiser for a school in Kenya, and then had dinner at the Princess of Wales pub in Primrose Hill.


Grey, cool and damp again on Saturday, but we were able to do most of what I had planned (a graphic art exhibit called AgitPop at the London Print Studio and the Camden Town Group painters at the Tate Britain), with the exception of the stroll around Chelsea -- when we got to the Royal Hospital, the rain that had been threatening all day started for real and the grounds of the hospital had just closed for the day, so we skipped that as well as Cheyne Walk and headed for a caff instead. The day ended with a concert of Welsh choirs at Cadogan Hall in Sloane Square -- some fine voices, but a very odd assortment of numbers, many sung in a language consisting mainly of G and W and totally without vowels, and a lot of stuff about the Risen Lord and Amen, Amen, Amen. The popular numbers were the strangest -- the theme from The Rose, Love is a Many Splendored Thing, When You Walk Through a Storm, and -- weirdest of all for us Yankees -- Elvis' American Trilogy of Dixie, the Battle Hymn of the Republic, and All My Trials.


Today, we're heading to Moorgate where we'll begin a walk around Smithfield Market and various dark and mysterious alleys in the City. It's somewhat warmer and not raining yet, but still grey. I guess you just learn to live with it.



End-of-day update: The afternoon turned out to be sunny and nice, so after the City walk we went to Covent Garden Market (ScribeGirl and rosenbeans will be happy to hear that I scored the soap and tea for them), walked through the Embankment Garden, and did a little food shopping in Chinatown.