Rainy Sunday

I cut myself some slack today, opting for a lie in this morning, then doing laundry and tidying up my space. Monday is rubbish day in the borough of Islington, so I brought up my recycling to go out with that from the rest of the house. The weather is still being a pig and I was in no mood to go out in the rain, so I faffed around till a bit after noon before heading out. 

I really had only one destination for today — the Museum of London in Docklands. I would normally have taken the DLR to West India Quay, but there was a partial closure and I was routed via Canary Wharf.

I hadn't been there in ages, so I looked at some of the new buildings.

And walked through Jubilee Park, which sits on top of the tube station. There's a great water feature that forms the spine of the park, and there are lots of benches all around. The park does just what it's supposed to do — it brings the scale of things from that of the surrounding tall buildings back down to human level. It's quiet, away from the traffic noise, and even smells great because of all the fir trees. 

I saw some new (to me) sculpture.

And reached West India Quay. The Museum of London in Docklands is housed in a former sugar warehouse along an old wharf. The permanent exhibitions, which I'd seen, have to do with London's part in the sugar and slave trade as well as the development of the docks. But I was there today to see Secret Rivers, an exhibition about the lost, buried  and/or forgotten rivers that flow into the Thames. 

The exhibition had a number of items found on the foreshore of the Thames and in digging around the other rivers, similar to what I'd seen in the exhibition at the Bargehouse except that these objects were really exceptional. The stuff includes bones, coins, leather shoes, children's toys, an engraved dog collar from the 18th (?) century, axes, daggers, a Medieval three-holer toilet seat, audio of sounds of the rivers, video from down in the sewers and a cope (a cape or cloak) worn by the Bishop of Lambeth at a recent blessing of the Thames that was made by an artist from the detritus of the river. 

I told myself that if it was not raining when I left the museum, I'd take the overground up to Shoreditch to mooch around for the rest of the afternoon. But it was raining, so I executed Plan B, heading back to London Bridge station and a short walk to the White Cube Bermondsey. 

I didn't know anything about the three women artists on exhibition, but I was immediately drawn to the galleries containing the work of Mona Hatoum, a Palestinian artist whose work involves themes of surveillance, incarceration, occupation and globalization. I managed to catch the second half of a video in which she talked about her work and what it meant. I really liked the exhibition and thoroughly enjoyed taking photos of the installations. I love photographing at the White Cube. The walls are white (duh) and the visitors often wear black with pops of colour here and there. It makes for good fun photographing the works and the punters looking at the works. 

Back in Bermondsey Street:

After more dodging of rain, I'm now back in Tufnell Park. Soon, I'll heat up my take-away Ethiopian that I'll have for me suppa. Off to Margate in the morning. 

Stats:
£35.10 for another one-week travel card loaded onto my Oyster
£1.50 cookie
£6 take-away for dinner
15,487 steps
6.6 miles

A Daytrip to Bath

I should be starting this post with a pithy quote from Jane Austen as she spent a lot of time in Bath and it figures in her fiction, but I've never read any of her books. I'm sure she had a lot to say about the social scene, the Georgian architecture and taking the waters at the Pump Room. I'm not as eloquent as she, so you'll just have to settle for my account of my day out on Saturday.

I booked my ticket several weeks ago and got the cheapest day return I could find. It's best to travel to Bath from London at the weekend, as the week day train schedules are more suited to people commuting for work than to daytrippers like me. The 8:30 am train from Paddington got me into Bath at 10 am, just enough time to stop in at the visitors' centre to get a free map of the centre city before the free 10:30 walking tour offered by the mayor's guides. There are three different walks (two free, one for £15) that have assembly points outside the Roman baths and the Abbey — the mayor's guide tour was the one with the massive crowd awaiting the start. I was a bit worried during the introduction as the group was so big and there didn't seem to be any use of amplification or headsets, but it was quickly revealed that there were six guides available and that the throng would be divided. I found myself in a group of about 16 people with an excellent guide called, coincidentally, Austen. He really knew his stuff and told us gobs as he lead us around, first inside the old Roman city walls and then uphill to the newer (1700s) part of the city, for two hours. Although I could have downloaded a self-guided walk or an audio guide, this guided walk turned out to be a great thing to do. I learned so much about the development of Bath, from the pre-Roman settlement, through 400 years of Romans, to some local kings, the Norman conquest, the building of the Abbey around 1500, a bunch of kings called George and the development of the 18th century Georgian city, to the rediscovery of the Roman architecture. 

Along the route, we saw the sites of some of the hot springs that have been used through the centuries for relaxation and healing, locations of various Medieval and Georgian hospitals (to this day, one of Bath's largest industries is health care), lovely Palladian facades facing pretty squares, the King's Circus, the Royal Crescent and the Assembly Rooms. I peeled off from the group at the Assembly Rooms, the penultimate stop on the walk, to eat my packed lunch on a bench and then backtrack to the Royal Crescent to see No. 1 Royal Crescent, a restored, beautifully appointed Georgian home. 

From there, I reversed the walk's route back down the Gravel Walk. On the way up, I'd seen an open door leading into the Georgian Garden and wanted to return for a look around. 

I then zigged and zagged back down hill, passing along Milsom Street with its bow-front shops, a posh commercial street in the 18th century and a bustling place today. I nipped into the Guildhall Market, had a sit down, a tea and a Welsh cake (a bit like a dense currant scone) before taking a look at the Pulteney Bridge with its shops on both sides (like the Rialto Bridge) and the weir on the River Avon. As I looked out at the bridge and at weir, I could hear the sound of a cheering crowd. Turns out that the rugby pitch was just across the river and Bath were playing a home game. 

My next stop was the Roman Baths. It's an expensive ticket, even at concession price, and I wondered how looking at an old swimming pool filled with green water was going to be worth the price of admission. Well, there's a lot more to the site than just that. Underneath the Georgian bath building and the Pump Room lies an entire complex of Roman bathing and worshiping facilities. With audio device in hand, I spent nearly two hours going through the exhibitions and numerous rooms. 

The photo above is of a bloke that they pay to sit around wearing a cloak and pretending to be a Roman. He was periodically approached by a punter who engaged him in conversation. Wonder if he spoke in Latin.

My plan was to go to the Pump Room after to taste the waters, but it seems to have closed sometime when I was roaming around the subterranean ruins. My other plan was to leave an hour for seeing the inside of Bath Abbey. I exited through the gift shop right at 5 pm, having made a mental note that the Abbey was open until 6. Not that day, it seems. They had just closed the doors in order to hold their annual harvest dinner for the congregation. 

And so I spent my final hour mooching around in the waning light. I passed a row of shops selling tourist tat and got a tote bag (with top zip!) for a fiver. It will be perfect to use as an overnight bag for my upcoming trip down to Arundel. By this time, the rugby fans had spilled back into the centre city and were heading into the pubs and restaurants or flocking to the train and coach stations. Time for me to catch the 6:43 train back to Paddington. 

As I write this, it's a gloomy, damp Sunday morning. I had a lie in, did my laundry and am tidying up a bit. Tomorrow it's Margate!

Stats:
$43.71 train ticket (booked online from the US, so charged in dollars)
£4.55 for No. 1 Royal Crescent (half off the concession price with Art Pass)
£4 tea and cake
£18.55 Roman Baths
£5 souvenir tote bag
£2.15 water and olive roll for train journey home
£12 wine and veg from market in Tufnell Park
21,671 steps
9.06 miles

Up the Archway and across the Heath

My friend Jen, who is a professional walking tour guide with Footprints of London, offered to take me on a bespoke version of her Archway and Highgate walk this morning. I met up with her half way up Dartmouth Park Hill; we continued walking upward to the Archway to see where the former gyratory has been converted to a pedestrianized plaza of sorts, called Navigator Square, with a disused pub in the middle that was where the cover for The Kinks album Muswell Hillbillies was photographed. We walked past a derelict Methodist hall, various new office towers, a former almshouse, a Mercers' Maiden (the Mercers owned property in Islington and founded the almshouse), up to — and then up over — Archway Bridge. We visited the Whittington Stone and the statue of Dick Whittington's cat, placed where it's said he heard the bells of St Mary-le-Bow calling him back to London when he and the cat set out to leave town. The bells seemed to say, "Turn again, Whittington, thrice Mayor of London." In fact, he was mayor four times. 

We walked through the incredibly lovely Waterlow Park, dubbed the "garden for the gardenless," and decided to stop at the caff in the park for a cuppa just as the skies opened up. The downpour gave us an opportunity to take a look at an exhibition of local artists' work, which was impressive. The rain soon stopped and we pushed on to explore some housing developments tucked up against Waterlow Park and Highgate Cemetery. Jen showed me were some scenes of The Bodyguard (the recent tv series, not the Whitney Houston movie) were filmed in Highgate New Town. I'm going to have to rewatch the series now. She ended our tour right next to a bus stop where I could get a bus over to Highgate Road and an entrance to Hampstead Heath. 

The weather was still looking fine as I started the uphill climb on the east side of the Heath. I debated whether to go left to Parliament Hill or follow the path to the right that would take me past the ponds and up to Kenwood House. Quickly, clouds rolled in and things began to look iffy again. I decided to go for the Parliament Hill route, hoping it would take me to the Viaduct Bridge, which I'd never seen, and out to Spaniards Road. The heath is a wild place and there are scores of paths that crisscross all over it. My phone was not able to figure out where I was, but that was ok because I had my trusty copy of Michael Middleditch's The London Mapguide with me. It's never let me down and even pointed me to the cute little toilet block/cottage in the woods. 

So there I was, in Spaniards Road just feet from the entrance to the Hill Garden and Pergola, when it began sprinkling again. Undeterred, I walked in the garden as the rain started chucking down. Since the structure I was there to see is a pergola, it wasn't going to offer me much in the way of shelter from the storm. I hightailed it to the cupola (a brolly for the brolly-less) and waited out the rain there, wondering if I should make a dash for the nearest bus stop. I was still mulling over my strategy when the skies cleared and the most beautiful late afternoon light bathed the gardens. (The photos below were taken when it was still raining, but I'll post the brighter ones on my photo site in due time.)

My spirits lifted by the sunshine, I reckoned I could get one more destination in before heading back to my gaff. I hopped a bus to Hampstead station, got the tube to Warren Street, and walked over to Regent's Park to see the Frieze sculpture. I'm no judge of sculpture but I know what I like. I liked the Emily Young. 

You be the judge of the rest. 

I've been trying to take different bus routes to and from my gaff. I hadn't yet taken the 134 to Tufnell Park, so I walked a few blocks east of Regent's Park to where it stopped on Hampstead Road. And I waited. And waited. When it finally arrived, the journey to Tufnell Park was short, but not fast enough to avoid the next onslaught of torrential rain that started just minutes before my stop and ended just minutes after I walked in my door. 

I'm off to Bath tomorrow. Fingers crossed I have some decent weather for my day out. 

Stats:

£3.60 for bread from the local baker

£4.85 for tea and coffee for Jen and me 

26,553 steps

11.2 miles

According to my Fitbit, I climbed 94 flights of stairs today. In reality, that was mostly uphill slogging.

More art, rambles and seeing me mates

I told myself I was going to slow down the pace, do fewer things and give my back a rest. I haven't exactly done a good job of any of that. Here's what I've been up to the past two days. 

Wednesday:

• Out the door at 8:10 am to walk up the Junction Road to take a Pilates mat class. My back did thank me for this.
• Back to me gaff to change clothes, eat, faff around and then out the door again at 11 am to head into town.
• Took the tube to Charring X and popped in to the NPG to see the BP 2019 Portrait Award exhibition. While I'm not all that keen on photographic portraits, and I avoid them like the plaque in my own photography, I do appreciate a good portrait painting. This year's exhibition did not disappoint and I thought the winners were well chosen.
• Walked over the Golden Jubilee Bridge to the Southbank and made my way towards Tate Modern.
• Stopped in Gabriel's Wharf for lunch — a Heidi pie (my favourite pie) from the Pieminister (my favourite pie maker). I even opted to eat in. I hate when people post photos of food they are about to eat, so here's my clean plate after consuming my pie.

• Popped into the Bankside Gallery to look at their print exhibition. They had a number of really nice prints at reasonable prices, but I resisted temptation.
• Pressed on to Tate Modern, taking photos along the way. 

• Saw two exhibitions at Tate Modern: Olafur Eliasson and Takis. Also wandered all over until I found Yinka Shonibare's British Library, which was what I really wanted to see. 
• Between the two big exhibitions, I went to the caff in search of a bottle of water. At first, all I saw was sparkling, not still, for £1.90. I was about to buy a bottle despite not wanting the bubbles when I saw both the tap water dispenser and the pastel de nata for £2.20. I don't have a huge sweet tooth, but I can't resist a pastel de nata (something I've never seen at home). Got one, sat at a table by the window and consumed a lot of the free tap water.
• While in Tate Modern, I saw that Kara Walker has the Hyundai Commission for the Turbine Hall, opening 2 October. We had a big exhibition of her silhouette prints at the Mount Holyoke College Art Museum a couple years ago. Her work is very challenging and really interesting. I could get a bit of a glimpse of what she has in store for the Turbine Hall. I'm going to have to make a point to come back to see it once it opens. 
• Went to the Bargehouse (behind the OXO Tower, nearby to the Tate) to see an exhibition about mudlarking finds from the Thames foreshore. There is an amazing array of stuff on display, including bits from Mesolithic, Roman, Georgian, Victorian and modern times. Many of the items have incredible stories.  
• Had a sit down in Bernie Spain's Garden next to the OXO, messaged my friend Kathy who lives nearby and she walked over to join me for a cuppa and a lovely catch-up before the 7 pm talk back at the Bargehouse — author Ted Sandling talking on London in Fragments, which is also the title of his book. The talk was informative and really good fun. Glad I booked it online weeks ago. 

What a full day! I crashed within an hour of getting back to my gaff.

Thursday:

• Met up with friends Malcolm and Jane at Shepherds Bush tube station for a ramble through Notting Dale to Ladbroke Grove station. Malcolm has lived in and around here his whole life, as did his dad. His grandparents lived here as well, having come to London from other parts of Britain. I'd asked him to show me around his patch, pointing out what's changed, what hasn't, what's come and gone, for better or worse. It was a thoroughly enjoyable time, zigzagging through streets that were for me uncharted territory as well a some familiar ones I'd not seen for several years. Much of it was new for Jane, too. We spent some of our time walking under the Westway in places you can't get to on Google Maps Streetview. This area is a classic example of London progress, going from abject slum (one of the worst Dickens had seen, and I reckon he'd seen a lot), to middle class housing, to decline (with one of the most notorious slumlords of the 20th century controlling much of the property), to the current gentrification. We walked around the base of Grenfell Tower and felt the impact of the tragic loss of life there and the council's woefully inadequate response to it. We ended our ramble with sandwiches at Pret. 
• Took the tube to Hammersmith and walked down to and along the river to 26 Upper Mall, former home of William Morris and now (part of it, at any rate) the home of the William Morris Society. The society maintains its exhibits in the garage and basement of the house. It's rarely open, and this was the first time I'd gotten the timing right. 
• Back on the tube to Kew Gardens to see some of the Chihuly glass installation. The weather was not cooperating at all, with minutes of sunshine alternating with brief torrential downpours throughout the day. I managed to see a lot of glass and to dodge a couple showers. And when the sun shone through the glass, it looked pretty special.

Stats for Wednesday:

£15 Pilates mat class

£5 Heidi pie

£2.20 pastel de nata

£3 wine at mudlarking talk

22,941 steps

9.8 miles

Stats for Thursday:

£3.98 sandwich and beverage for lunch

£6 veg pie for tomorrow's dinner
26,331 steps
11 miles

Art, history, more architecture and seeing me mates

Monday saw me in Westminster, Pimlico and Soho, while Tuesday took me to Bloomsbury and the City. Here's what I did and saw:

I was out the door bright and early on Monday to meet my friend Simon at Westminster Hall. I'd never seen any of the Palace of Westminster and thought the exhibition about the Peterloo Massacre (it's the 200th anniversary) would be a grand way to get into Westminster Hall for free. I'd listened to two very interesting podcasts about Peterloo in preparation and I'm looking forward to seeing the upcoming film. The exhibition, however, wasn't much of anything — four panels, one of which was blocked by a construction barrier. But I did enjoy seeing the inside of the hall, the oldest bits of which date to the 11th century. There's an incredible timber roof, constructed in the 14th century, that spans an enormous space and has some impressive carved angels attached to the beams. 

Simon and I had tea and a catch-up in the caff and then he walked me down to Tate Britain, pointing out various bits of architectural interest along the way. At Tate Britain, I met up with my friend Judy, with whom I always enjoy seeing arty things. We first looked at the installation called The Asset Strippers by Mike Nelson in the Duveen Galleries. We'd seen a previous installation by Nelson at Tate Britain — The Coral Reef, in which he had recreated the rooms of a minicab office in one of the galleries. I confess to not having done any reading on The Asset Strippers, so I wasn't sure what it was all about. What he's done is to purchase various large pieces of industrial machinery at auction and raise them (literally and figuratively) to monumental status on pedestals and plinths. Some of the machines still had dust and cobwebs on them and a couple of the ones used in the textile industry had spools of thread and bits of trim still attached. There were no labels or wall text for any of it, so it's all up to the viewer to interpret it. My take away was that these machines represented British manufacturing industries that no longer exist. Taken off the factory floor and installed in the Duveen Galleries, they do become monuments to a past glory. In addition, each machine takes on sculptural qualities. I could picture any one of them on the fourth plinth (which I'd stopped to see on my way to Westminster Hall). 

After lunch in the members' caff, we saw the Blake exhibition. I'm a bit of a philistine when it comes to Blake, never really having read any of his poetry other than the Tyger poem and Jerusalem. This exhibition, however, was 98% about his art and, again, I hardly knew it. There's an awful lot of religious imagery and I can only do so much of that. I far preferred the paintings and prints with visions and supernatural beings. My greatest appreciation was for his technique, as he pushed printmaking into new realms during his time. Glad I saw it, but the best part of the afternoon was catching up with Judy. 

Skies were looking quite iffy when I exited the museum, but I decided to see if I could fit in one more exhibition in central London before heading back to me gaff in Tufnell Park. I took the tube to Oxford Circus and popped into the Photographers' Gallery, a place I always enjoy. The exhibition there is Urban Impulses: Latin American Photography from 1959 to 2016. It was full of images of things I'd never seen — street scenes, advertising, portraits, intimate moments — from countries I've never been to. Definitely worth seeing.

I decided to take a different route back to Tufnell Park and opted for the number 88 bus, which took me up the east side of Regent's Park and through Camden Town (known territory) before heading up Kentish Town Road (as yet unexplored). The walk back to the house was a bit longer than if I'd taken the 390 as usual, but gave me an opportunity to see a bit more of Fortess Road. Exhausted, I had an early dinner, watched some Netflix and hit the sack. 

The rain was chucking down when I woke up on Tuesday, so I decided to have a lie-in, hand wash some laundry, drink a second cup of tea and head out late for my day's adventures. Also, my back is really hurting and I thought it would be good to go easy. On rainy days, my usual go-to spot is the V&A, but I decided to mix it up a bit and go to the British Museum instead. Again, inspired by a podcast (the BM now has its own podcast in which different curators or members of staff chat about objects in the museum) I knew I wanted to go to room 41 to see the Sutton Hoo burial ship. It did not disappoint, but the museum was full of school groups and I pressed on. 

I was prebooked for a free talk "Revels on the River" that's part of the Totally Thames Festival. The talk was in the Guildhall Library, so I hopped a bus heading east, got a cheap sandwich and ate it in the yard of St Lawrence Jewry, next to the Guildhall. Here's the description: "From Royal pageantry and Frost Fairs to the Tall Ships Festival, the Thames has for centuries been a focus for local and national celebration. In a lavishly illustrated talk, Pete Smith traces the history of these revels on the river." It was a totally entertaining talk and you know how much I love totally free events. Afterwards, I took in Architecture of London, the current exhibition at the Guildhall Art Gallery, which I really enjoyed. I thought I recognized the location of one of the paintings and, sure enough, it turns out to be just down Brecknock Road from my AirBnB. I'd seen the spot from the 390. 

All day I'd been dodging the rain. For the most part, I was inside when it was chucking down and on the move when it eased up. I couldn't tell from the forecast what the evening had in store, and I was dead tired, so I decided to bail on the free evening walk to see the illuminations of four of the bridges on the Thames. I beat the rush hour, got back to Tufnell Park with plenty of time to walk to Budgen's (a bit further walk but SOOOO much better than the nearby Sainsbury's Local) to load up on more groceries. I used the evening for stretching, fixing dinner and writing this long post for my loyal readers. I think I'll be doing every-other-day posts from here on in. 

Monday stats:
£2.50 Photographers' Gallery (half price with Art Pass)
£2.50 groceries
19,482 steps
8.32 miles

Tuesday stats:
£3.85 for sandwich 
£3.50 for Guildhall Art Gallery
£16.30 groceries and wine
13,135 steps
5.47 miles